It all started when I decided to go to the Post Office. I got there at two minutes before five, and lucked out by catching the tail end of a very long line. By the time I finally made it to the counter, it was close to 5:30pm. But I did not leave until nearing 5:45pm.
I would have left sooner but a woman who had apparently been waiting patiently outside of the queue chose that moment to act up. She was expecting a check, she said. She was waiting for the carrier (who had apparently already left for the day). She needed that check, she insisted. She would not be upset if her gas tank wasn’t already on E but inasmuch as it was, she needed her check. No one understood why she had stood there silently for so long. And no one realized that she was seething until she finally erupted.
Then she attacked me. She didn’t understand why they had served me and not her, since she had been in the line before me. In fact she was sure that I hadn’t even been in the line! I assured her calmly that I had been. In fact, I was literally the last person in line. She demanded that the woman attending to me stop what she was doing and go find out if her mail, which she had apparently put on hold while she was away on a trip, was now available. I left her there, still complaining.
I was no longer in the mood to prepare dinner. I decided to eat out. I turned on my trusty GPS and looked for restaurants in the area. When I happened upon one with Caribbean cuisine, I thought I had died and gone to heaven.
Bring! Bring! “Hello?”, a male voice responded in my ear, a question mark lifting the end, suggesting the possibility that the caller may not have really intended to reach his domain. “Hello?”
I got straight to the point. “Hello? Do you have fish on the menu?” I asked.
“Yes we have fish, but we don’t prepare it in advance. You have to order it and then we prepare it.”
So far so good. I asked what kind of fish he had. “Red Snapper and Tilapia”, he replied.
“I want the Red Snapper.“ I said. “How do you prepare it?”
“However you want”, he replied. “We could fry it or we could stew it.”
“Well, I don’t want fried so how about stew?” Stewed fish was a dish my grandmother often prepared. The way she did it, the fish slices were first fried in hot oil after being dusted with seasoned cornmeal. Then she stewed the slices in burnt sugar, tossing in a variety of chopped vegetables along the way. The resulting dish was consumed over a bed of white rice. I once asked her why it was called stewed fish when it was clearly both fried and stewed, and she told my mother to get better control of her children and stop them from asking her such foolish questions.
“You want brown gravy or regular gravy?” the man on the phone inquired. His accent was indeterminate. He could be Haitian or Jamaican. He could even be from Belize. I could not tell.
“I think just regular”, I responded. And then I made what turned out to be a fatal mistake. I asked him which island his chef was from.
“Oh, you looking for politics!” he responded scornfully. “Whatever you want to eat I could make.”
“You misunderstood me”, I protested. “I just wanted to know if he could make Jamaican-style fish.”
“Yes, I can see you just looking for politics. Well I don’t have time for politics!”
I proceeded to make things worse.
“You misunderstand me,” I said. “I just wanted to know if the chef could prepare escovitch fish. You only mentioned fried and stewed, so I didn’t know if he could prepare it Jamaican style.”I barely got those words out. He started talking over me. “Well I is Jamaican and I told you we could prepare the fish however you want it. But you only looking for politics! I really not in the mood for no politics. And I have a setta people waiting here so hurry up and tell me what kind of fish you really want yes.” He sighed deeply.
“Well, why don’t you go ahead and take care of your people. Thank you sir”. I hung up, irritated. And still hungry.
The exchange helped me to realize how removed I have become from Caribbean exchanges. Three or four years ago, I would have known better than to mention the word “Jamaican” in the exchange. I would have asked him if he offered fried, stewed, escovitch, or a host of other preparation options. There are as many ways to prepare fish in the Caribbean as there are islands. But mentioning the island itself can raise the hackles of some sensitive individuals.
I also realized with fascination that the man knew that he could get away with offending me. His was no McDonald's-influenced style of conducting business. He was not going to give me a fake smile. If I pissed him off with my stupid question, he was going to let me know that he was pissed off. On Caribbean islands that do not depend on tourism for their primary income, such breathtaking honesty is typical. They serve tourists the way they serve themselves and each other -- with a level of candor that borders on rudeness. Actually no, it doesn’t border. It’s downright rude. Ask a stupid question and you will get a forthright, no-holds-barred answer letting you know that the question was foolish. Caribbean people are proud of the fact that they don’t water in their mouths, figuratively speaking.
And so I did not have fish for dinner after all. Of course I could have humbled myself and ordered it anyway. And I know that the chef, who was clearly also answering the phone, would have prepared it with care. Because that too is Caribbean. Rudeness is no excuse for less than excellent cooking. The chef could live with me telling people that he had been an asshole, but telling them that he was a bad cook on top of that was not an option. But I am also American. And receiving poor service sets my blood boiling. I feel entitled to fake smiles, even in response to my stupid questions. I probably need to work on that.
(This entry first appeared at tennischick.net in January 2009)






